- Type
- Watch
- Brand / dial text
- Tell
- Description
- Silver dial with applied bar markers, numerals at 12, 9 and 6, date window at 3, gold-coloured case, dial reads TELL with a logo and Swiss Made
- Movement calibre
- FHF 96-4 (probable)
- Movement type
- Manual
- Jewels
- 17
- Case back
- Screw-down
- Verdict
- Practice teardown
✓ Dial✓ Crown✓ Stem✓ Case✓ Case back✓ Movement
Notes
25 Oct 2026: chosen as a practice movement, since it is missing its hands and crystal. It is manual-wind with a date mechanism, so it also gives practice on the calendar work.
Dial removed, movement close-ups taken. Plate is stamped 'SEVENTEEN 17 JEWELS' and 'SWISS'; '96-4' is stamped near the balance, beside a small oval logo with letters 'ST' (a stylised FHF/ST mark, reading unsure). Regulator has a +/- scale. This matches the Fontainemelon (FHF/ST) calibre 96 family: 11.5 ligne (about 26 mm), 17 jewels, 18,000 bph, manual-wind, Incabloc, launched 1965, with 964 listed as a variant. Probable but not confirmed; check the diameter against 26 mm and compare the layout with a reference photo. Ranfft does not list a date mechanism for the base calibre 96, so the date on this watch needs checking on the dial side of the movement. A small hooked metal part fell out when the dial was removed (roughly 4-5 mm long, curved hook at one end and a thin straight arm; its function is not identified). Keep it in a labelled bag with this watch.
Source: https://ranfft.org/caliber/5786-FHF-96
Dial-side photo. A white date disc numbered 1-31 sits over a calendar mechanism on the dial side, with a date driving wheel, intermediate wheels and a spring lever (jumper) at the lower right. This looks like a calendar module added on top of the base movement, which would explain why the base FHF 96 is not listed with a date; unconfirmed. Calibre remains probable. The hooked part that fell out could be a calendar spring or lever (unconfirmed); check for a post or pivot with no part on it.
Service article on the FHF ST 96-4 (Alan Krantas, Medium): 25.6 mm, 4.6 mm high, 17 jewels, 18,000 bph, date only with no quickset (advance the date by turning the hands between about 21:00 and 00:00), no hacking, about 48 hour reserve. This corrects my earlier idea that the date was an add-on module; it is part of the calibre. Points from the article for a teardown: the date disc is held by three small plates, the longest also covers the date jumper and its spring (at 6 o'clock); the date driving wheel carries an elastic metal date finger; the crown wheel screw has a reverse thread and a washer; the click spring and setting lever spring are easy to lose; the dial-side shock jewel setting is smaller than the one in the balance bridge. The hooked part that fell out may be the date finger or a calendar spring (unconfirmed).
Source: https://alankrantas.medium.com/servicing-a-fhf-st-96-4-manual-winding-movement-a-steady-echo-from-the-past-60c3f6257f05
Crystal seat measured around 30.8 mm (a second reading of 30.6 mm was possible from the photo, so unconfirmed); ordered a 30.8 mm and a 31.0 mm low dome acrylic to find the best fit. Order 02-15357-71912, delivery estimated 28-29 Oct. Original crystal shape (flat or domed) unknown. Press-fit with a crystal press; if it needs heavy force, try the smaller size.
Source: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196361689495
Find replacement hands (hour, minute and any seconds hand)Planned
Check the crystalPlanned
Photograph the dial side of the movement and work out where the fallen hooked part belongsPlanned
Acrylic low dome crystal 30.8 mm
eBay - maddisonsofdurham · £4.20Ordered
Acrylic low dome crystal 31.0 mm
eBay - maddisonsofdurham · £4.20Ordered